Rachael Hughes
When autumnal hikes meet Paris Fashion Week runways. Introducing: Gorpcore. The trend that is both fashionable and functional, or just another excuse to aestheticise our lives?
Gorpcore. It may sound like a foreign concept, but it epitomizes a style that has been around for decades. Capturing the ‘Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts’ rhetoric that exists alongside trail mix, gorpcore was established by Jason Chen in 2017 for The Cut, as an attempt to label a style that had yet to find its place in fashion discourse. Brands such as Nike, The North Face, Patagonia, and Colombia were the pioneers of gorpcore, facilitating the hikers; the campers; the adventurers, before fashion-houses like Miu-Miu and Gucci got their million dollar, extravaganza hands on it. Thermal fleeces, puffer coats, thick-soled shoes and cargo trousers are all staples of gorpcore, with an Earth-tones dominating its colour palette.
“is gorpcore here for the long-run, or is it microtrend amongst many?”
Gen Z ‘it-girls’ wasted no time in taking gorpcore to the streets; Bella Hadid was spotted sporting Saloman S/Lab XT-6 trainers, whilst Hailey Bieber posed the MM6 Maison Margiela x TNF Circle Denali top and gilet. Even Ariana Grande made a recent come-back via Instagram costuming a true University of Manchester first-year undergrad in a black The North Face puffer. But is gorpcore here for the long-run, or is it microtrend amongst many?
“Cores, aesthetics, moodboards, and vibes are all just a result of wanting to look cute on social media”, says Alexandra Polk for Refinery29. TikTok especially has created a marketplace for personalities and lifestyles, specifically catered to women I have noticed. Cottagecore, normcore, angelcore, clean girl aesthetic, feral girl aesthetic, it girl aesthetic; it’s a minefield. It seems that we are desperate to mould ourselves/lives into a character/plot that is desirable, consuming things that favour our categorisation. This is problematic because ultimately, it’s unsustainable.
“lockdowns paired with a surge in climate activism has encouraged a rise in outdoorsy wear”
Society influences culture, just as culture influences society. Various lockdowns paired with a surge in climate activism have encouraged a rise in outdoorsy wear, as we were forced to seek solace in nature, whilst appreciating the greenery we’re surrounded by. Yet, as momentum for such causes falter, other microtrends are brewing, I fear. It’s only natural that trends come and go, taking our sense of style with them.
That being said, gorpcore does display a longevity that other microtrends don’t. There has always been a need for outdoorsy fashion, despite it not always being ‘fashionable.’ And there always will be! The North Face (1968), Off White (2012), Patagonia (1973) and Snow Peak (1958) are just some of the brands that have served gorpcore for decades – it is their niche and it’s difficult to imagine them straying away from hiking-camping gear.
“comfort is key”
Lockdowns and working from home have given more people an excuse to branch out into outdoorsy fashion. Replacing pencil skirts and restrictive blouses for leggings and fleeces has been welcomed by many – comfort is key.
It’s just that, when big fashion-houses latch onto a certain style like gorpcore, it tends to encourage the content-ification of outdoor wear. It’s all for the ‘gram. It was y2k low-rise minis last year. What’s next?
“It’s comfortable, it’s practical, it can definitely be stylish”
It’s undeniable that gorpcore has officially broken into the mainstream. I mean, why not? It’s comfortable, it’s practical, it can definitely be stylish, and it gives the impression that us stay-at-home girls are in fact adventurous. (We’re not, but we are comfy.) According to The Guardian, Google searches for the term ‘gorpcore’ increased by a phenomenal 211% in the past year.
However, while outdoorsy fashion is here to stay, gorpcore as an aesthetic, may just be another microtrend in the fashion industry’s relentless regurgitation of trends.
Featured image courtesy of v2osk on Unsplash. Image license found here. No changes have been made to this image.