Eva Castanedo
Fashion month is over *sad face* – but that doesn’t mean we can’t reminisce about the most iconic moments from the year’s most fashionable month.
Every February, fashion enthusiasts await the arrival of all the fall/winter collections. But, this season in particular was probably the most anticipated one in recent years.
It is arguably the first one which feels like a post-pandemic comeback, especially as last year the world came to a halt due to Putin’s invasion of Ukraine. As the conflict continued, what was to be fashion’s post-pandemic party – rightfully – took a back seat in 2022.
Now 2023 feels like we are finally at a point of resurgence for the industry, so here is a recap of the top moments this historic fashion month has left us – and what we should keep an eye out for in the future!
A Discrete Balenciaga Show after massive scandal
There was a lot at stake for Balenciaga at this season’s show. In November last year, the brand launched two campaigns – one featuring images of children holding BDSM teddy bears and another showing documents about a Supreme Court case on child pornography buried in a giant mess of papers.
The fashion house was heavily criticised and condemned by the public, and if accusations of child pornography and calls for cancellation were not enough, just add the Ye controversy to the mix.
Balenciaga then ended up cutting all ties with rapper Kanye West after he made controversial comments, including anti-Semitic threats and white supremacy remarks.
So, Balenciaga played it safe in Paris, putting together a show in Carrousel du Louvre, which was Paris Fashion Week’s centre stage until the early 2000s.
The show solely focused on the clothes and left behind the drama and shocking displays that have characterised their shows for the last decade. No more staged snowstorms whirling around models for AW22 or runway mud pits for SS23 – this year’s set was simple, minimalistic and even plain.
The Burberry Trench’s return – with a twist
The location? London’s Oval stadium – the home of the quintessentially British sport of cricket, hinting at the centrality of Britishness to the collection. Lee’s focus on outerwear was evident. What could be more British than a selection of garments that will shield you from the drizzly grey clouds?
London’s biggest show was full of native A-listers like Stormzy, Naomi Campbell, and Rosie Huntington, who witnessed firsthand the comeback of the emblematic Burberry trench – which the brand inexplicably stopped producing for a few years. But the Burberry trench came back with a twist – instead of the classic tan overcoat, the attendees were presented with a varied selection of vibrant colours, like yellow and purple, and new cuts, such as oversized fits and blown-out collars.
Victoria Beckham solidifies her top fashion designer status in Paris
Paris is the pinnacle of the fashion season. Its rich history is profoundly rooted in haute-couture, and it has an unmatched reputation for hosting the world’s most influential creators – only the best designers make it to Paris.
Victoria Beckham now has two Paris shows under her belt. She says: “I’ve been doing fashion longer than I did music”.
For the last 15 years, she has built a label that is synonymous with a sexy, streamlined, and modern aesthetic. Undoubtedly her public life alongside football star David Beckham cements her celebrity status, but it is time we acknowledge her worthiness as a designer. Many big-name celebrities turned fashion designers could only dream of Beckham’s longevity in fashion.
Is she a visionary with unmatched talent? Perhaps not. But her quality pieces attract editorial and red-carpet attention, and she consistently creates chic collections that emphasise strength and femininity.
Naomi Campbell walked at Alexander McQueen
The iconic British supermodel opened the Alexander McQueen AW23 on its grand return to Paris, and her walk was nothing but UNREAL. The 52-year-old model turned heads, showing full confidence in demonstrating what a supermodel-worthy catwalk should look like, proving that age is just a number.
The collection was inspired by the work of the late designer in the 90s. It had an aura of dark elegance which accentuated the exactitude of human anatomy.
Kim K and Dolce & Gabbana
Is D&G a way for Kim Kardashian to become a more erudite and well-respected personality in the fashion world – especially since her ex-husband is constantly in the midst of controversy? Or is D&G gravitating towards a more Kardashian-like approach to fashion?
It might be too soon to tell, but this is a creative partnership that we should definitely keep an eye on. Kim has been an ambassador for the brand since September last year. She has curated a collection reimagining the brand’s most iconic looks from the 90s and rocked Milan wearing four skin-tight Dolce & Gabbana outfits in just one day.
The White Lotus Cast took over the front row
Meghann Fahy sat front row at Proenza Schouler, wearing a modern take on women’s tailoring. Beatrice Granno and Simona Tabasco (the Italian hookers) made their NYFW debut at the Michael Kors show. Meanwhile, Jon Gries (Greg, the scheming husband of Jennifer Coolidge’s character Tanya McQuoid) walked the Eckhaus Latta show, wearing a translucent knit top and a pair of tailored linen trousers.
Finally, Haley Lu Richardson (Portia) attended her first fashion week ever, and she debuted by sitting in none other than Diesel’s front row next to drag performer Alexis Stone, impersonating Jennifer Coolidge.
Always exquisite Dior
I cannot remember a season where Dior was not on my top 3 favourite shows. While it is true that it is always a personal favourite, this year Maria Grazia Chiuri has outdone herself.
She took the classic “French Girl Style” but reframed it by taking a modern approach to one of Dior’s classics: the New Look.
It is true that collections inspired by iconic women throughout history have been one of Chiuri’s defining characteristics as the creative director of Dior. But this time around, she has given a broader approach to this concept. The show was heavily influenced by Catherine Dior – Christian Dior’s sister – who served as inspiration for the New Look which was a key fashion moment in the 50s.
It is no longer 1950, so even though the collection is heavily inspired by the New Look, this time, it has a darker and more deconstructed aesthetic. Corsets that restrain the body are gone, and left in its place are shapes that are suggestive of the woman’s figure – but without constraints.
A very French approach to fashion, creating simple but elevated outfits without compromising on versatility.
Featured image courtesy of Rudy Issa on Unsplash. Image license can be found here. No changes were made to this image.
evacastanedo
Final Year Journalism student at Cardiff University with a background in content-writing and magazine editorial and a keen interest in news, current affairs and fashion & lifestyle.