Rebecca Richard
Last month, six fashion influencers visited a Shein clothing factory in Guangzhou, China for a brand-sponsored tour of the facility. They were under the illusion that they would receive the inside scoop on the brand’s design and manufacturing processes, but the trip has led to severe internet backlash.
The all-expenses-paid trip was intended to support the company in “debunking” rumours surrounding unethical business operations, as the influencers agreed to document their visit across their social media platforms. TikToks and Instagram reels uploaded by the influencers in attendance featured glowing reports of the factory, with critics accusing them of dressing up PR as an undercover investigation.
The high cost of fast fashion
Shein is a Chinese online fast-fashion brand. Producing over 6000 new pieces every day and shipping to over 150 countries worldwide, it is no surprise that Shein was announced as the biggest clothing retailer in the world in 2022.
“these jaw-dropping statistics, and Shein’s low prices, come at a high cost”
But these jaw-dropping statistics, and Shein’s low prices, come at a high cost. Despite their world-renowned fashion status, Shein has been shrouded in controversy for years, including allegations of human rights abuses, hazardous chemicals within their clothing, and theft of independent artists’ designs.
TikToks published by the influencers displayed a clean, airy and bright workplace, decorated with water features and greenery. Termed the ‘Innovation Factory’, the space showcased cheery employees working behind sewing machines at spacious desks. Employees at this Shein factory were reportedly “surprised” at the allegations of mistreatment against them. One influencer also added that the workers “weren’t even sweating”.
It is understandable that an online creator would jump at the chance to get an exclusive insight into the fashion mogul’s manufacturing process. That said, it is deplorable that no questions were raised by the influencers as to why they had been invited on the brand trip. Nor did they publicly scrutinise whether their experience accurately reflected the real working conditions of the manufacturing giant.
https://twitter.com/LindseyCreated/status/1672234516285386754
Did influencers “investigate” the Shein factory?
One influencer in attendance (who is a self-described “investigative journalist), took to TikTok to share how impressed they were at the working conditions in the Shein factory. They stated: “My biggest takeaway from this trip was to be an independent thinker, get the facts, and see it with your own two eyes”. I was unaware that investigative journalists receive payment, free hospitality, boat trips, and clothing before reporting on controversial topics.
It seems questionable, if not extremely convenient, that a brand-sponsored tour of the Shein facility supposedly disproves years of reported labour rights abuses. Look no further than the Channel 4 documentary Inside the Shein Machine: UNTOLD (2022). This documentary sent one undercover employee to two separate factories in Guangzhou that produce clothes for Shein. Whilst secretly filming, it was revealed that employees were working around 18 hours per day, earning just 3-4 pence per garment produced, and afforded only one day off per month.
“It is ironic that these influencers, who frequently share International Women’s Day posts, are the ones perpetuating this betrayal”
The participation of these content creators in the Shein factory trip promoted the brand’s glossed-over version of reality and is a blatant betrayal to women worldwide. The very women who support these influencers by consuming their social media content, as well as Shein’s exploited workers who are more likely to be women, have every right to feel deceived. It is ironic that these influencers, who frequently share International Women’s Day posts, are the ones perpetuating this betrayal.
At the end of the day, influencers with large platforms, particularly those who have the gall to label themselves as “investigative journalists”, bear the responsibility of sharing thoroughly examined and genuinely honest content.
I was invited earlier this month to tour the SHEIN factory, I said no. Kind of scary that I could have been on it pic.twitter.com/3hzGMxbXC6
— tyler oakley // schedule pinned (@tyleroakley) June 26, 2023
Who is to blame for the Shein factory debacle?
While I stand my ground that these influencers carry a share of the blame, even if blinded by the excitement of the exclusive experience, we must not lose sight of the true villain in this story – Shein. Before rushing to their social media pages to express our horror at their misjudgement, it is essential to remember that even they are not exempt from Shein’s misleading PR tactics.
This is not the first time that Shein has made false claims to smooth over their less-than-perfect human rights record. In 2021, a Reuters report found that Shein had incorrectly stated on their website that their working conditions were in line with international labour regulations.
“Shein took advantage of these influencers’ naivety and social media presence to quickly forge credibility”
Shein took advantage of these influencers’ naivety and social media presence to quickly forge credibility, but the PR move backfired thanks to beady-eyed consumers. If Shein wants to disprove the heinous allegations against their operations once and for all, surely they should engage actual investigative journalists with expertise in human rights advocacy and media inquiries, rather than fashion influencers.
Ultimately, Shein could invite all the press they wish to visit a single showcased facility among the thousands in their production process. Still, no difference would be made to the unseen exploited workers elsewhere. If Shein wishes to avoid the inconvenient bad press that follows human rights violations and feeble attempts to cover them up, perhaps a serious re-evaluation of their unethical working conditions is in order. I guess one can dream.
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Featured image courtesy of Rio Lecatompessy on Unsplash. Image license found here. No changes were made to this image.