Eve Davies
Primark is the latest fast fashion giant to come out with a ‘pre-loved’ range. Their mega flagship store on Oxford Street now offers a secondhand designer clothing section called WornWell. This is also available in their Manchester and Birmingham stores with plans for it to spread further… But it is not as virtuous as it seems.
While this sounds like positive action, Primark has been accused of greenwashing, and I can see why. As a brand, their reputation and business model are based on producing extortionate amounts of short-lived, poor-quality products. Primark is the definition of fast-fashion, and inherently contradicts the values of ethical fashion.
“it’s time we started making more conscious decisions”
Let’s be honest, the majority of us own items from the Irish fashion conglomerate – one cannot deny it’s convenient, cheap, and is guaranteed to cover us with any last-minute outfits or Christmas gifts. But it’s time we started making more conscious decisions when it comes to convenience shopping.
Pre-Loved: Another Case of Greenwashing?
When assessed according to Good On You’s rigorous ethical rating system, which looks into the environmental impact, labour conditions, and animal welfare, Primark gained an overall rating of ‘not good enough’. I believe that this score along with their findings shows that their existing production methods should have been addressed before using resources on extra initiatives such as their WornWell line.
In the Fashion Transparency Index 2022, Primark gained a traceability score of 11%-20%, meaning they are reluctant to share details about their supply chain. Despite claims on their ‘Primark Cares’ page and in their Primark Sustainability and Ethics Progress Report, which go along the lines of: “At Primark, we are committed more than ever, to make more sustainable fashion affordable for all”, the company’s lack of transparency disputes these promises.
“the damage has already been done”
If Primark cannot be open and honest about their production processes, I can understand why they have been met with greenwashing accusations as their pre-loved line is a public declaration of commitment to environmentalism while there is no evidence to prove that the company’s greenhouse gas emissions, generated from both its own operations and within its supply chain, have reduced in line with targets.
Primark’s actions, from the very first stage of production, should be environmentally ethical to reduce the carbon footprint they affect in their mass production line before extra measures are put in place. It is all well and good recycling fast-fashion, or handing it on to new owners, but if the production of the garment had a negative effect on the environment, then it is too late, the damage has already been done.
Beyond environmentalism, Primark do not own their own factories and manufacturing is often outsourced, meaning that despite claims of ethical practice and auditing, they do not have full control over their entire supply chain, so cannot take the blame for any unsafe working conditions discovered. As a company who cannot provide evidence of the fair treatment of staff’s financial and physical well-being, I cannot help but question whether it is right for Primark to direct attention to gallant ethical practices, such as their WornWell line, when staff within the organisation are being treated unethically.
“particularly worrying considering the current economic situation”
There is also evidence that Primark do not adequately pay their staff, which is particularly worrying considering the current economic situation. Yes, Primark is a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative and has adopted their Code of Conduct, but this code does not ensure staff are paid living wage. With an annual revenue of £7, 697m, Primark should be prioritising the financial stability of their stage, from production line to shop floor, over increasing their credibility with trendy ‘pre-loved’ ranges.
Let’s Give Some Justice…
All that said, it is true that any change, no matter how small, is good – small steps in the right direction will eventually have big impacts on consumer culture and environmentalism, and Primark has taken more than one step. Aside from their WornWell line, Primark have partnered with Yellow Octopus, a recycling specialist that diverts garments from landfill, handing them on to new homes or repurposing them into new products such as toy stuffing and insulation. Recycling boxes can be found in all 190 stores across the UK, where you can drop off any unwanted clothing, textiles, bags, or footwear. Additionally, big designer labels have been spotted in Primark’s WornWell section, making high-end fashion more accessible to the average fashionista.
Despite its flaws, this is a commendable step taken by Primark. Ultimately, the brand still has a long way to go until their ethics reach a happy place.
Featured image courtesy of Johnathan Kemper on Unsplash. No changes were made to this image. Image license can be found here.
evedaviess
Eve is 22 years old and lives in Swansea. She has recently graduated from Cardiff University with a BA in English Literature. Eve's main interest is in lifestyle writing, particularly health, food, and travel.