Susanna Borio
With beautiful cobblestoned streets and dramatic sunsets, Folegandros will have you forget all about the other, tourist-heavy islands in Greece.
Only an hour’s ferry ride from Santorini, this volcanic island in the southern Cyclades has vast, mountainous areas and a beautiful medieval Chora (or Hora, for those trying to impress the locals, meaning the main town on an island).
The charming, uncrowded beaches and stiff cliffs offer mesmerising views that are best experienced with a refreshing local wine in hand. For animal lovers, the Chora is also home to a clowder of adorable, and rather well-fed stray cats. They sit around and longingly stare at you while you eat dinner at the local tavernas and bars. As a general rule, do not feed the cats unless you want them to follow you around for the rest of your time on the island.
Folegandros’ Beaches
Folegandros is home to extraordinarily wonderful beaches, easily accessible either by local busses, foot, or exclusively by boat. Luckily, there are daily public boats – ensure to save their timetable to avoid unwanted hikes.
Famously, the island is known as the place to visit when looking for nude beaches. Now more conservative due to frequent tourist visits, you might still catch a glimpse of a local in their ‘birthday suit’, enjoying themselves under the hot sun.
Karavostasi, Katergo, and Vardia
Karavostasi Beach is the first area you’ll see when entering the Folegandros port. Here you’ll be surrounded by traditionally white buildings and places to eat, making it a popular place to stay. From the harbour you can reach Katergo Beach, while on the other side of the rocks of Karavostasi, you’ll find Vardia Beach.
Vardia Beach is the perfect secluded spot, accessible by stairs. Here you can enjoy alone time without venturing too far away from the rest of the island. Similarly, Katergo Beach is the most well-known on the island. Accessible either by boat or through hiking, this secluded beach has some of the most gorgeous scenery on the island. Make sure to pre-pack food and drinks to enjoy the turquoise waters as long as possible.
Agali, Livadaki, and Agios Nikolaos
Next up, Agali Beach is located only a short drive from Chora and Ano Meria. Surrounded by whitewashed houses and sharp cliffs, Agali Beach’s crystal-clear waters and local cafes make it the perfect spot for a relaxing day in the sun.
Only a short boat journey from Agali, or a slightly longer hike, you will find Livadaki Beach and Agios Nikolaos Beach.
Livadaki is a secluded, pebbles stone beach where the water clarity will leave you stunned. At Agios Nikolaos, on the other hand, you’ll be able to enjoy the beachside bar and the taverna overlooking the sea.
The hike to reach them follows the coastline, providing incredible vistas and spots for pictures to impress your friends. You will get to your destination sweaty and with a sense of accomplishment, making the first dip in the crispy waters that much sweeter.
Ligaria and Agios Georgios
With large areas of the island looking deserted, adventure lovers can rent an ATV and explore the northern parts for its hidden gems. Across the rugged coastline, you will find the quiet and secluded beaches of Ligaria and Agios Georgios.
Perfect for those looking to do some snorkelling, while feeling like you are visiting a pirate hideaway. On windy days, the northern exposure creates waves like nowhere else on the island, and the trees offer a welcome refuge from the heat.
Church of Panagia
Sitting on top of a hill, the Church of Panagia overlooks the coast. This is the place to admire the view of the steep cliff crashing into the ocean. Probably the most photographed area of the island, it’s famous for its undulating white path and incredible sunset vistas. Take a stroll and experience the colours produced by the sun hitting the whitewashed church.
On the western edge of the island, you will also find the Church of Chrysopigi. A more secluded spot reached either by car or on foot from Ano Meria. Here, you will find a great area to enjoy the sunset undisturbed by other visitors. Be careful fashionistas, this spot is not as protected from the wind and will definitely ruin your hairstyle.
Folegandros castle
Folegandros castle was built on the edge of a steep cliff as a medieval settlement to protect the inhabitants from pirates. Its many houses and narrow streets create a beautiful atmosphere for a nightly stroll after dinner in one of the Chora’s many tavernas. Overlooking the ocean, it now provides a romantic spot to watch the sun settle over the horizon.
Ano Meria
Ano Meria is a village in the northwestern region of the island, only 5km away from Chora. This scarcely populated village is surrounded by delightful scenery and green fields. Walking across the historic paths, you will experience the old tavernas and their preserved age-old traditions and heritage.
Stop to enjoy typical dishes such as Matsata, similar to homemade pasta. Your visit would not be complete without a visit to the Laographic Museum. Symbolising the quintessential cottage house, it showcases a typical principal house, including an oven, cellar, winepress, and miniature vineyard.
Be warned, a short stop in Folegandros on your island-hopping journey could leave you regretful. Despite its smaller size, exploring the island’s hidden beaches will require time.
The Chora resembles a smaller version of Santorini’s Oia, without the hustle of competing with tourists for the best spot. Folegandros has all the best parts of the more popular islands but provides the peace and quiet you might need to escape your everyday stresses. Sit back and enjoy the vistas, the food, and the crystal-clear waters during your time at this Greek hidden gem.
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Featured image courtesy of Susanna Borio.
