A Black woman misting her curly hair with product.

Jessica Watts


The Curly Girl Method, from Lorraine Massey’s book Curly Girl: The Handbook (2010) is a hair care method that sets out the do’s and don’ts to enhance dry or damaged curly hair.

I am afraid of a few things: germs, spiders, flying, heights… But nothing strikes fear into me like the ‘curl police’. So, before I start talking about the Curly Girl Method, I have to get some things straight:

  1. I have wavy-to-curly hair (which needs a little help defining itself)
  2. I am not an expert
  3. Hair and beauty should be fun, not judgemental

With the PSA out of the way, the Curly Girl Method is for anyone wanting to define and defrizz their curly hair. Made popular by author Lorraine Massey, this method of haircare is for natural hair (coils, waves, and curls) that hasn’t been chemically relaxed.

Other authors and influencers have tweaked this method specifically for Black hair.

Reportedly, The Curly Girl Method works best on type 2b to 4b curls, as defined by Oprah Winfrey’s stylist. You can figure out your hair type to see if the method is right for you. But anyone can give it a go!

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How to: The Curly Girl Method

First things first, this isn’t going to be easy. You won’t hop out of the shower with perfect, silky ringlets on the first try — nor will your hair wash be a swift process. It will take time, patience, and a hell of a lot of perseverance.

But trust me, it will be worth it.

1. Detox wash (optional)

Over time, product can build up in your hair and weigh your curls down. Every couple of washes — but not every wash — you can use a sulphate-laden shampoo to ‘clarify’ your hair.

Many regular shampoos contain sulphate, which tends to strip your curls of moisture. This can be good to clarify your hair every now and again. It’s like cleaning out the gunk in the washing machine filter, making the machine more efficient. But, for the most part, mainstream shampoos aren’t designed with curly hair in mind.

2. Shampoo

This step is where you need to avoid sulphates and silicones, as well as other ingredients that curly girls scream about online. Select a curly girl-approved shampoo and massage it into wet hair.

DON’T SHAMPOO THE ENDS OF YOUR HAIR! The ends are the driest part of your hair and the excess shampoo you wash from your hair will be sufficient to clean your ends.

3. Condition

Scrunch a handful (for me, it’s a bucketful) of conditioner into the mid-lengths and ends of your hair.

Next, take a wide-toothed comb and comb the conditioner throughout your hair, from roots to ends. In lieu of a comb, your fingers make an excellent substitute.

Let the conditioner sit in your hair for 2-5 mins. This is about the same amount of time it takes to practice accepting your Oscar for Best Lead Actor, if you were curious.

Wash the majority of the conditioner out.

4. Gel

While your hair is dripping wet, start to scrunch it into ‘curl clumps’. Take a generous amount of strong hold gel (such as the cult favourite Eco Style gel) and rub it between your hands. Scrunch the gel up into your hair, cupping and squeezing until you hear a squishy sound.

This is a crucial and often misunderstood step. People are put off because your dry hair can feel crunchy and hard (it may even look wet). But, have no fear, step 5 is where the magic happens.

5. Oil

The holy grail for curly hair, oil is a must at the end of any curly hair routine. Most oils will work, but I recommend the Wella Deluxe Rich Oil (10/10 scent and leaves your hair soft and silky). Scrunch this through your crunchy curls to ‘break the cast’ and watch as your hair falls out into bouncy, soft-to-the-touch curls or waves.

Personalise the Curly Girl Method

These are just the basics of the Curly Girl Method. If you want to add extra steps, such as hair masks, leave in conditioner, curl cream, or mousse, go for it! Personalise your routine until it works for you.

Remember, the Curly Girl Method isn’t quick, nor easy. But power through to see the benefits. And, if it doesn’t work the first time, keep trying.

If a few months in, you feel like something is wrong, troubleshoot until you find a routine that works for you. I, myself, am still learning and making mistakes, but it is worth it. And L’Oréal is right: you’re worth it!

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Featured image courtesy of Sunday II Sunday on Unsplash. No changes were made to this image. Image license found here.

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