Eve Davies
Standard clothing sizes are inconsistent across and within brands and often have a detrimental impact on self-esteem. In a society obsessed with body image, we naturally use clothes sizes to judge the acceptability of our bodies. If clothes sizes are inconsistent, how can our views be accurate or realistic?
“modern fashion has a fit problem.”
Coming out of lockdown in need of a whole new wardrobe. My existing one (excusing trackie bottoms and lounge sets) is almost two years out of date, and partly because I’ve outgrown my going out clothes. I realised how much of my shop was dominated by standard sizing charts.
I asked others how they feel about size labels and found that 44% of people said they always put a lot of thought into the size on their clothing labels. 54% said that they sometimes do, leaving only 2% saying that their clothing size never bothers them.
Clothes Sizes and Body Image
Clearly, modern fashion has a fit problem. Customers return an estimated 40% of what they buy online, mostly because of sizing issues. 88% of people said that the size of their clothes impacts the way they feel towards their body, having a detrimental impact on body image and self-esteem.
90% of people said that they feel better about themselves when they ‘size down’ rather than ‘size up’. Studies published in the Journal of Consumer Psychology prove positive mental imagery is evoked when consumers imagine themselves in smaller sizes.
Podcast host, Vanessa Zoltan, admits: ‘I’m an addict to a smaller size’, showing how much self-worth our society dedicates to these inconsistent numbers.
Check out Vanessa Zoltan and Casper ter Kulie’s podcast, The Real Question: Clothes and Sizes, for more discussion on vacillating between sizes, accepting body fluctuations, and overcoming clothing sentimentality.
Arbitrary Sizing Charts, Labels, and Fast Fashion
In the days of fast fashion and mass production, I understand clothing brands must use sizing charts. However, it is the arbitrary nature of, and significance given to these numbers I consider problematic. 90% of people said that they find the same ‘size’ fits differently depending on where they shop and what the item of clothing is.
Sizing can vary from shop to shop on the high street and there is even variation within brands. A size 10 bodycon dress can fit perfectly from one shop, but a size 12 may not fit past your hips when you go to the next. Equally, a pair of size 8 Mom shorts could fit well, but a size 8 pair of Bermuda shorts from the same shop could drown you.
It is cheaper to mass-produce garments of one size rather than considering the fluctuation between body types. This is why cheaper fast fashion brands, such as H&M, PLT, Boohoo, and Primark were named as some of the most arbitrary when it comes to sizing. The production process is so fast that sizing becomes sloppy.
Another problem is the label on top of the label. The ‘small’ ‘medium’ and ‘large’ labels vary between different brands’ sizes. Personally, I think they are degrading, especially considering many brands consider a perfectly healthy size 12 ‘large’. Some shops, including Primark, have now introduced sizes such as XXS putting more pressure on people to shrink into smaller sizes that are simply unattainable for many body types.
As much as I commend brands that cater for curvier figures with ‘plus-sized ranges, the label ‘plus-sized is hardly flattering.
A small dress from Zara has a waist of 66cm. Boohoo’s small waist measurement (size 6/8) can range between 64.77cm to 66.04cm, whereas H&M’s size guide states that a small waist (size8/10) is 68-72cm, showing just how haphazard high street sizes are.
The problem with the current system is that standard sizes are not personally beneficial. They are not invented to serve individuals a perfectly fitting garment, but rather to benefit mass production. This is too often forgotten by young women when feeling down about themselves for not fitting a certain size.
Back In The Day
“mass-produced items are made with guesswork”
Before the days of high street and online shopping, the only way to buy a party frock was to go to the dressmakers, or if money was scarce, you’d make your own.
Clothing made to fit perfectly; no labels printed with meaningless numbers, no sizes 4 to 16 and never the dreaded moment of not fitting in your usual size. Clothes were made to fit the contours of individual bodies, not the other way around – exactly how it should be.
I’m not saying you should splash out on a custom-made garment every weekend. But do keep in mind that mass-produced items are made with guesswork; made to suit thousands of body types, not your one unique body.
Social Media Pressure
With Social Media flooded by Influencers and Brand Ambassadors promoting certain clothing items, telling their followers what size fits them. I can’t help but wonder whether explicitly pointing out what size they are wearing is necessary. We don’t know what size their bodies are in real life, so what makes them a valid comparison?
Personally, I think hearing that so and so wears an extra small in everything can degrade self-esteem. As if perfectly Photoshopped and edited photographs weren’t enough, we must then battle with the feeling of shame for not fitting into the smaller sizes these Insta-stars seem to.
Retail Therapy No More
Anxiety around clothing sizes can ruin any shopping trip. It reduces an enjoyable experience into one that messes with our self-esteem.
Journalist, Molly Quirk, states: ‘Inconsistent sizing is one of the most frustrating issues for shoppers on the British high street. It’s time brands brought their sizes into line.’
Raise your hand if you’ve ever felt frustrated in some awfully lit changing rooms because you can’t fit into a size you usually do even though your body hasn’t changed.
In these moments, remember you are not meant to fit into clothes. They are meant to fit you, and it is the sizing that is wrong not your body. Wear the size that you feel comfortable in, the one that feels right. Try not to give much thought to a poxy number on a label. Throw out the tags and chop off the label if it helps. You are powerful, the number is powerless.
No One Has A True Size
As explained by Wendy Heijne, who has lengthy experience in the fashion industry, it is ‘difficult it is to find one person with a size and length exactly according to the standard measurement’. She explains recruiting models with the exact measurements that correspond to sizing charts is ‘almost impossible,’ making it difficult for recruiters as well as consumers.
Many people said that they don’t know what ‘true to size’ even means or what their ‘true size’ is as it varies so significantly between items and brands.
The mindset of people blaming themselves for not fitting in a certain size, instead of blaming the poor sizing of the item is also problematic.
Vanity Sizing
“their use of vanity sizing is no doubt doing women more harm than good.”
Vanity sizing is the phenomenon of clothing manufacturers assigning smaller sizes to larger clothing items; inflation for clothing sizes. Brands use this strategy to boost customers’ morale and promote brand loyalty.
Considering the size guides I mentioned previously, could one say that H&M epitomises vanity sizing? Convincing customers their bodies conform to cultural ideas and tapping into vulnerability to give a false sense of worth only found at their store.
If this is the case, their use of vanity sizing is no doubt doing women more harm than good. They are shot back down at the next store where a size small will not do. This enforces the need for standardized global sizes.
The Round Up
I believe the main instigator of this sizing crisis is that there are no clear standard sizes. There needs to be a consensus across the industry. It should be a legal requirement for clothing stores and brands to abide by a global standardised sizing chart where the nominal size corresponds to certain physical measurements.
This way it would be easier for women to accept their size without false hope and changing room embarrassment. Allow people to buy a certain size and feel assured it will fit.
Featured image courtesy of Steve Reed via Flickr. No changes were made to this image. Image license found here.
evedaviess
Eve is 22 years old and lives in Swansea. She has recently graduated from Cardiff University with a BA in English Literature. Eve's main interest is in lifestyle writing, particularly health, food, and travel.