Faraday Gamble-Gittings
With a world of fashion, style, and culture at our fingertips, communities defined by their aesthetics flood the internet daily. But have we reached the point of oversaturation? Do you really need to be a ‘coastal cowgirl’ or ‘pilates princess’?
Defining your aesthetic
I never had a proper descriptor for my style. There’s no umbrella term or overarching influence. The only consistent part of my style is its inconsistency.
Some days, I opt for a delicate, vintage, and feminine style. Others are preppy and workwear-inspired. I wake up and opt for masculine and androgynous tailoring on some days. On others, I go for an eclectic, vibrant mix of trendy pieces.
@ambikadhr 1 skirt, 6 fits & a lotta secondhand gems #fashionaesthetics
When explaining my assorted styles, I have often referenced characters, films, or celebrities. If I want a light, feminine, preppy style for a day’s outfit, I’ll call it “The Secret History meets Clueless“. Meanwhile, if I sway towards a blue, floaty summer attire, it conjures up the phrase “Mamma Mia vibes”.
My system of defining my different tastes may be crude and clunky. But social media is swirling with its own aesthetics. These minor subcultures (defined as a core design principle) gained popularity rapidly in the age of TikTok and Instagram. An aesthetic can be trendy on Monday and be dead in the water by Saturday.
‘Not a subculture’
Unlike subcultures, defined by political or social movements, aesthetics lack the overarching morals and shared aspects of culture. Punk is united by its rejection of the establishment and tendency towards anarchic views. On the other hand, hipster subculture is defined by its irony and counterculture. Subcultures are often subversive and aim to make a statement, but aesthetics are defined by look alone.
https://www.tiktok.com/@c10us3/video/7178130761130790190?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7270113739713054240
Both subcultures and aesthetics are about expression. According to writer Anna Johnson, the ability to express ourselves is declining. Instead, the trend cycle leads us to all look the same.
Many emerging styles are based on fantasy and escapism. The Old Money aesthetic is inspired by the style of the well-established, wealthy American families on the East Coast. Costal Grandma (not to be confused with Costal Cowboy) depicts a slow and natural life on a beautiful beach. These styles all have one thing in common: they’re inspired by a romanticised life very few of us are living. Even Balletcore, a style derived from the garments of classic dance, is a rosy version of a dancer’s fashion and lifestyle.
The creation of online communities
By their very nature, these aesthetics create communities across the globe. They unite strangers who would have never known about each other, without this form of escapism to connect them. Social media, such as TikTok, are intrinsic to the popularity of these styles and link those who share aesthetics. Whilst wider pop culture is not intrinsic, followers of certain styles may bond over a shared love of an artist or film.
“The underrepresentation of Women Of Colour in the Balletcore trend is incredibly problematic”
However, by defining a person’s style with a theme, aesthetics also have the power to limit fashion. Fans of the look may, unknowingly, get stuck wearing certain garments, styles, or colours because they tie into the aesthetic. They may lose their personality and end up looking like every other TikTok user.
@woodenwizrd
Beyond the cute clothes and make-up looks, these styles have a toxic undertone. The underrepresentation of Women Of Colour in the Balletcore trend is incredibly problematic, as is the glamorisation of perfect bodies. Cottagecore has also been criticised for bordering on colonialism and sexism. Coquette, like Lolita Harajuku fashion before it, can be misinterpreted as paedophilic.
While the same could be said of subcultures, the viral nature of these aesthetics means they are far more accessible. It can be hard to escape both the styles and their problematic undertones, due to the power of social media algorithms. Subconsciously, they can implant ideas in impressionable viewers.
Internet oversaturation
New styles emerge seemingly daily and have even made it into the societal vernacular.
Fast fashion brands create “edits” based on the latest TikTok style, or even entire collections, to encourage unsustainable consumption. While the algorithm tailors content for each user, it is impossible to escape popular aesthetics, whether you interact with it or not.
“Cottagecore is for anyone, regardless of the colour of their skin”
But the boom of internet aesthetics does not mean you have to label your style. It’s important to take these niche style trends with a pinch of salt. You don’t need to find “your aesthetic” unless you want to. Nor do you need to dress in line with these styles because they are trending.
Remember to be yourself
Fashion is and always will be a personal choice: it’s a canvas for expression and euphoria. If “coastal cowboy” or “fairygrunge” makes you happy then, by all means, delve into it. But do not let yourself or your style be confined by a label.
You can enjoy a “preppy” outfit without needing to label it as such. Buying a pair of loafers does not mean your entire wardrobe needs to align with “dark academia” dress codes.
Most importantly, remember to look at the context of these styles with some logic and nuance. Balletcore does not require the so-called perfect body. Cottagecore is for anyone, regardless of the colour of their skin. You don’t need to buy new items of clothing to dress up for a movie premiere.
Take inspiration from wherever you want. But design your aesthetic, based on expression and passion.
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THE TOMATO GIRL: EUROPEAN DREAM OR ASPIRATIONAL FAD?
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IS SHAPEWEAR ANTI-FEMINIST?
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‘BARBIECORE’: THE PROBLEMS WITH BARBIE AND CONSUMERISM
Featured image courtesy of Olivier Bergeron on Unsplash. No changes were made to this image. Image license found here.
Faraday Gamble-Gittings
I am a fashion writer and stylist. I love anything travel and have an obsession with Hummus. I have written for Fashion North, Luxe magazine, Sunderland Vibe and the Telegraph.